Pennine Way through Northern England 

Friday 1st May  Burness to Bellingham

Pennine Way on forest tracks and hill paths
14 miles approx

I had already covered a few miles of Pennine Way yesterday and in foul weather. I woke early at 6:30am and nipped to the loo. Given that today was a relatively short one I got back in the bag and it wasn't until after nine when I resurfaced. I had used the cape as a ground sheet to protect the tent from the swampy grass of the campsite. It was now so muddy enough that it needed a wash under a tap. I didn't get started walking until 10:40. It was already cloudy with just a sneek of sun. I was now on familiar turf. I remember that when I walked this part of the way a few years ago, I was walking with a bloke that I had met on the Cheviot. Tony was from a town just up the road from my home and so we walked together for a few days. It was very sunny back then but not today, so the walk along the track through Redesdale Forest was long and bleak. Looking back I could see the Cheviot looking like a huge slug in the far distance. I eventually reached the gate and, remembering how muddy the pennine way path was as it followed the fence from here towards Padon Hill, I decided to continue along the forest track for a few miles more. The track became a small single track road which later rejoined the PW at Gunstone.

At this junction it started raining hard, I knew it was coming, as from here, you can see for miles ahead and I could see a band of rain sweeping in across from the west. So it was on with the waterproofs and cape again. The ground was already very boggy and this made for difficult walking with the driving heavy rain. The sky was full of rain, great curtains continued to push in one after the next. I pushed out as hard and fast as I could, and was just glad that I had walked and seen this area already as I wasn't about to see much of it now. I followed the PW all the way to Bellingham and just as I arrived it stopped raining. How strange and how typical. I was glad though, as it meant that I could get rid of the waterproofs before I arrived at the guest house. I'd stayed at the Lyn Dale guest house before. It is run by Ken and his wife. They really make you feel welcome. I even got the same little room that I'd stayed in the last time. Its at the top of a spiral staircase with a good view of the start of tomorrows walk. Ken suggested that I head to the cafe on the edge of town for something to eat. It wasn't well signed, and was in fact part of the village hall so I nearly missed it. It was worth finding however as the food was really nice and home cooked. I had burger and real chips followed by a piece of carrot cake. Yum. I bought a few supplies for tomorrow from the COOP and headed back to my room.  


Saturday 2nd May  Bellingham to Once Brewed 

Pennine Way on forest tracks and hill paths
15 miles approx (+ 3 miles to Hareshaw Linn)

I woke early and headed down for breakfast at 8am. I was joined at the table by six cyclists who were enjoying a three day ride to Lindesfarn on this bank holiday weekend. We talked about cycling adventures and it turned out that four of them were from Tideswell and often cycled in the peak district around Monsall. They were interested in my walk and we talked so much to cause Ken a few problems with timing the delivery of their breakfasts. I only had scrambled egg on toast as I wanted to get away fairly early and I had decided to walk up to Hareshaw Linn (waterfall) before setting off. Ken and Joy suggested that I leave my pack with them and pick it up on the way back. They are really nice people. I took a brisk walk to the river and saw the fingerpost to the Linn, 1.5 miles, what!!! Well I'd decided to do it so at nearly a running pace I stomped it out. The path was cool and shaded from the early morning sun. It was also nice and empty at this time of the morning. I crossed a few bridges as I climbed up the gully and soon found myself at the Linn. Its a nice waterfall, and worth the walk, especially as I had it all to myself. I didn't hang about though having to cover the same distance back to town before a full days walk. Before collecting my pack I called in to the butchers in the market square to buy some freshly made ham butties. I could still taste the ones I had when walking the pennine way. Ken recommended them to me then and they are really nice. Real ham, cut in front of you, real butter, and nice soft buns. I returned to the guest house. Ken and Joy were surprised that I'd done it so fast. They offered me a cup of tea but I declined having to make some miles being nearly 10am. On in the sun, down to the river North Tyne, then accross and up towards the nicely named Shitlington Crags. All familiar stuff to me. One thing I noticed is that all the PW finger posts had been replaced with nice new ones in the last year. These also now show you the distance to the next point. I remember that there were some really nice old ones, covered in lichen and moss. These had now gone too. There were quite a few people out today, one guy was walking the PW north with his bike. He's doing it in stages and using the bike to ride back to the start point. I bet he struggles in some areas with a bike. Still he was happy. I stopped in the nice sunshine just before entering the forest at Ground Rigg. There were a few groups of people walking in both directions. I caught up with one at Haughton Common, they were doing a circular days walk. I soon arrived at Ridley Common where I called my mum. Her family name being Ridley Pearson, I thought I should let her know. Then after a steep climb up to Hadrians Wall I walked along it for a few miles. It was very busy. Then at Milecastle 39 I left the wall and headed down to Once Brewed YHA. I'd stayed there before whilst walking with people from work. I found it closed today, but luckily the Tourist Information next door was open and I bought some cans of pop and an ice lolly. It was steaming hot in the afternoon sun. A mile further on along the road brought me to Winshields farm campsite. It was heaving with bank holiday families and groups. This was the first time I'd camped on a busy site. Kids everywhere. Argggh. Still I was lucky as the one shower they had on site was empty. I washed my clothes in the sinks and hung them in the evening sun on a makeshift washing line off my tent. I didn't get much sleep with the noisy campers. Still a I was planning a relatively short day tomorrow.

Sunday 3rd May  Once Brewed to Alston 

Mainly old railway track of the South Tyne Trail
17 miles approx

It rained in the night, and quite heavy too. I was up at 7:45am, and got in the shower before anyone else. It was sort of sunny and windy so the tent dried out before I set off. I took the path beside the farm and climbed back up to Hardians Wall. I walked along the wall up to the quarry car park at milecastle 42. Here I left the Pennine Way and Hadrians Wall and took a little back road towards Haltwistle. In the centre of town I found a sign that claimed Haltwhistle is the centre of Great Britain. I guess that means I'm half way.

I bought a few supplies from the local COOP and headed for the Tyne Trail. I looked for and followed signs for cycle route 68 (the pennine cycle way) as this joins the old railway track for a few miles at the start. It wasn't too easy to find but I eventually joined the way at Broomhouse. Walking along this old railway bed you can imagine the steam trains chugging along belowing smoke out. The little bridges are darkened by the years of sooty smoke. I had plenty of time to imagine these things as I was now with the Tyne Trail for the rest of the day. In parts the track was busy with walkers and cyclists. I passed old railway stations at Park Village and Featherstone then came the great Lambley Viaduct. This is an imense structure that once carried the trains over the deep South Tyne gorge. The old Lambley station house is a private home and as a result the path drops down between the giant arches of the viaduct and then back up to rejoin the track again further on. Later, down the track I could see the Pennine Way weaving up above then below the railway. I remembered when walking the way that some people shouted down to me from the track, as I was clambering up and down, what are you doing down there man? I was walking the Pennine Way and wanted to follow it the whole route. With this walk I was more flexible and could pick and choose my path.

This railway path makes for good and level walking. From Slaggyford the gravel path turned to grass and then mud, but in the scorching sun I didn't mind too much. From Kirkhaugh Station runs a narrow guage railway line to Alston. As I approached the little steam train was arriving. As I continued, I planned to video the train as it passed me on its way back. I walked, walked and walked, but in the end I had to stop on a bridge just outside Alston to wait for it! Alston was busy on this sunny Sunday. I made my way up to the Victoria Inn, where I had stayed several times before. I got the same room again. The landlady used to prepare her own chinese food, but this time she had a curry restaurant set up in the back of the pub (the victoria spice!). I had dinner there, It was really nice food. I sat in my room watching the weather forecast. Serious rain and wild wind for the next three days. Hard to believe this would be the case after today. I bought supplies from COOP. Fingers crossed about the weather.


Monday 4th May  Alston to Dufton 

Tracks and paths of the Pennine Way
20 miles approx

I woke at 6:30 with rain lashing at the windows. The forecast was right. I had a nice breakfast at 8am and had a chat with a couple of cyclists who were planning their days ride with maps out on the table. These guys are the types who have always done what you have done but only faster, further or otherwise better so I didn't talk long. As I left the hotel the rain had stopped. I rejoined and followed the PW along the river through fields towards Garrigill. There was a mean looking bull in one of the fields but it payed me no attention. As I approached Garigill it started raining hard and the wind picked up too. The village was dead. I guess the rain is keeping people inside or away altogether. Just beyond rthe village squar, the old miners track begins and took me up towards a grey cloud covered Cross Fell. This is the highest point of the PW and it was typical that I was heading up in the worst weather this year. I walked and walked with the rain getting heavier and the wind building even stronger, driving the rain straight in my face. It was grim. My hands were freezing as I gripped the cape tightly to try to keep it from blowing away. I eventually made it to Gregs Hut (an old miners hut, now a bothy) just a few hundred feet below the summit. I went in to sign the book but my hands were so cold that I couldn't hold the pen. I had to stay there for 20mins to see if I could warm up a bit. I was wet and cold and hadn't even got to the top yet. As I left I met a guy coming down. He warned me that the wind on top was so strong that he could hardly stand up. I had little choice really so I pressed on through the squelch, now following an indistinct path towards a cairn that marked the edge of the plateau. The wind was crazy, I too found that I could hardly stand. I had to take the cape off as it was either going to fly off or worse take me with it. I took shelter at the stone shelter erected near the trig point and made a call home. When I had walked the PW I had great views from here, today all I could see was horizontal rain driving hard in towards me. It was so misty that I couldn't see the cairns that mark the route across. I headed off and soon realised that I was lost and didn't recognise anything. One minute I was walking on wet bolders, the next I was in very boggy wet ground. I pulled out the GPS. I had already Dufton and the Dun Fells marked and I could see that I was heading the wrong way. I followed the GPS through the driving rain and eventually found the slabbed path that ran over to Little Dun Fell. As I crossed the ridge the wind was insane. I was struggling to walk and was almost horizontal having to use my hands to steady myself. The wind was so bad that my waterproof pants tore apart and blew off. I had to get them back and the wind nearly put me in a large boggy pond. This was nightmare walking. The slabs were greasy and the wind sent me skidding about so many times. I was shouting at the wind, it wouldn't beat me. I was going to finish this walk. I wasn't going to be defeated now. I needed the GPS again to get me across to Great Dun Fell where I had a brief break from the wind as I rounded the back of the hill. Now it was over towards and over Green Fell. This was horrible again as I was soaking wet and freezing cold. Yet again I needed the GPS to find the cairn that marked the down path to Dufton. I stomped down the path and as I decended the wind dropped away. The rain stopped too. I must have looked weird to people that I passed low down as it was nice and sunny and there was no wind as I arrived in Dufton. It didn't last though, as while I was pitching the tent it started raining again. I got showered and headed to the Stag Inn for fish and chips and a couple of pints of Boddingtons. I was stuffed. Back to the tent, the weather was again, cold, wet and miserable. I listened to the radio, tomorrows weather was forecast to be worse. Brill.

Tuesday 5th May  Dufton to Sedburgh

Tracks, paths and a bit of road to and through the Howgills
28 miles approx

Its been just four weeks of walking to get me to here from the top of Britain. What a walk, what an experience and I'm now only days away from home, its hard to believe. The wind was very strong and gusty in the night, but the little tent held out ok. I was showered and packed up by 7am. It wasn't raining. I had a long day ahead that would take me through unfamiliar territory. To begin with I used a local path to keep me off the road as I headed out towards Appleby-In-Westmoreland, but there was no choice but to walk the road for a couple of miles when the path ran out. This wasn't a problem as even though it was rush hour, the traffic was light. Looking back, the cloud was sitting dark and heavy over the hills. I wondered if Cross Fell was as bad today as it was for me yesterday. Appleby was busy with people heading to work and school. I found a little COOP for supplies. I was hoping to find an outdoor shop in town but there was none. If it wasn't for the busy traffic and parked cars, the place would have been really nice. I decided to do some road walking out of town given that there wasn't much of an alternative. I headed out to Hoff where a path promised to take me along the Hoff Beck. I eventually got off the road and managed to find the path by chance as there are no signs. The path follows the little river through fields of cows and sheep up to the Rutter Force waterfall. I couldn't find the waterfall and at one point I found myself in someones garden. The path had been made unclear and there are no signs to follow. After this as I progressed through more fields with yet more cows and I couldn't be sure where to go at all. I was looking for a gate or a bridge to cross the beck as I waded through long wet grass. I eventually found a bridge and then followed a farm track which brought me to the road near Great Asby. That was a relief. After a bit more road taking me through this nice village and a rather grotty farm yard I was at last in open fields with obvious wall stiles. I made my way up to Asby Winderwath Common. It started to drizzle as I reached the wilder moors and I could see lots of rain clouds coming in from the west. This is a wild and remote place. On a sunny day it would be great walking country. I crested the hill and could see the Howgills in the dreary distance. As I headed down about fifty sheep decided to follow me noisely. Baaing mad for something, I think that they thought that I was a farmer with dinner. I managed to get through a gate and close it behind me, leaving them complaining. It started to really rain now, heavy rain too. It was on with the full waterproofs and cape. This place, and the views would be really nice in better weather, open limestone moors around Sunbiggin Tarn. I couldn't see a track on the ground where it shows on the map so I followed a wall up hill and steep down hill and climbed a gate to a little road that headed towards Newbiggin. After half a mile I joined a little road through an underpass towards Bowderdale. Here the rain really came down hard and a really cold wind picked up and again blasted the rain in my face. It was yesterday all over again. I was really looking forward to the Howgills section of this walk too. The path that climbed up Bowderdale was like a river, everything was wet through including me. With the bad weather and especially the strong wind I made the decision not to go to the the highest peak, The Calf. On the map I could see a little path that made its way down from the top of the pass and was on the look out for it. The climb up Bowderdale was long and in this wind and rain, it was very tough going. I noticed what could be a little used path up near Rams Gill and had to jump over a river to get to it. Squelch, squelch, squelch through a boggy mire before the path become a little more clearly a path. From here I could see a great waterfall (I wasn't too surprised with all this rain). It was Cautly Spout which looked to fall a hundred feet or more. My path dropped off steeply here too. It was steep steep and skiddy gravel too. I took it easy even though the wind and rain wanted to send me to the bottom much quicker. I was off my map now an had to guess which way to go. At the bottom, I found what looked like an old path or bridalway that headed in the rightish direction. It cut up above the valley. I walked and walked and eventually came to a small road which climbed steeply up and down. The rain was tipping down on me so heavy that I looked about to see who was holding the jet washer but it was just rain. I eventually came out at the A road into Sedburgh and found the Dalesman Inn. As I entered everyone at the bar turned to look at me. I felt it necessary to remark that it is raining out there you know. I was shown to my room, squelching with every step. Everything was wet but I was drained. I had a nice dinner of stake and chips and got an early night with another long day, with forecast bad weather tomorrow.

Wednesday 6th May  Sedburgh to Horton-in-Ribblesdale

Hill paths through the Yorkshire Dales to rejoin the Pennine Way
22 miles approx

Most of my things had dried out by the time I woke at 6:30am. I headed for breakfast at 8:30. It was a really full, full-English breakfast. I chatted with an elderly couple who had travelled from New Zealand and had driven up the M6 in that horrible rain yesterday. When I mentioned what I was doing they told me of an end to end walk through the two Islands of New Zealand. Perhaps this could be a future idea. I set out shortly after. It wasn't raining. I called in to a walking shop and bought some cheap waterproof trousers then headed out of town looking for the Dales Way. I found and joined it at Millthrop. Only a mile into the day and it started to rain. Drizzle at first then heavy rain, then really heavy rain. I was following a field path through loads of styles with gates along the river Dee. There were a few people out and about. I thought to myself that they must be mad, but I was mad too. I arrived at Dent, cold and wet through already. I decided to try to follow the little Ingleton road out of town rather than the original plan of Green Lane as the wind was howling at this low level and I didn't want to gain height too soon in the day. The road was off my map but I believed that it would bring me out alongside of Whernside, which was the first peak for today. It was a very steep road with a couple of closed gates too, but I did eventually arrive at its crest in a gale force wind and horizontal rain at White Shaw Moss. Where the map shows that a path strikes off the road towards the summit I couldn't find any sign of it on the ground. As it stands I could hardly stand and the rain was now power washing into my face. I took a chance and went through an old green metal gate and crossed a small river before aiming up what could only be described as a rough sheep track. It looked like the only possible option in this terrible weather and thick cloud. At the end of a wall, as the path climbed steeply to a level shoulder, the wind really hit and took my cape right off over my head. I had no choice but to remove it completely and push on into the driving rain. Luckily there were a couple of cairns to guide me as the place was just a river and swamp. I could hardly believe it when out of the cloud appeared a familiar sight of the shelter and trig point of Whernside. I dived into the shelter, and ducked down out of the wind. Just as I did a bloke turned the corner and joined me in the shelter. Chris was doing a recky walk preparing for guiding a group of people round the three peak challenge route the following week. I left him eating a butty and pressed on into the wind. The rain was now stinging my face, I needed to get down. The path down was much clearer being part of the main route over to Ingleborough, but it was very steep steps. Very steep and wet steps, so I took my time. Chris caught up to me near the bottom and passed me in a hurry to get back to his car in Horton. As I got lower the rain stopped and cleared enough for me to see the Ribblehead Viaduct in the distance. Now began the climb up to Ingleborough. I'd done this as part of the Yorkshire three peak challenge a couple of years ago with people from work. It was sunny then. Not today. It rained on and off on the climb up to the ridge. At the top of the very steep bit, I caught up to two guys. They were going to the top of Ingleborough as a training walk for doing the coast to coast walk. They were impressed with what I'd already done and was doing as a whole. Now I was heading down the wide track towards Horton. Chris came walking up behind me and we walked the last few miles together. He just stomped through all the mud and slop whilst I skirted round it. He was heading home, I was heading to a pub. We talked about a few things including his interest in archery. It was nice to walk with someone for a spell. I left him at the car park. I cleaned up my boots in the wet grass on the roadside and took off the gaiters outside the closed Pen Y Gent Cafe, then headed over to the Golden Lion pub.

The room was ok, with working very hot radiators. I had burger and chips in the bar and headed up to bed, I was very tired today. In fact  I was wasted. The weather was really taking its toll.



Thursday 7th May  Horton-in-Ribblesdale to Gargrave  

Hill paths along the Pennine Way
20 miles approx

I woke early as usual. It rained really hard in the night and was very windy too. Lucky then that I was indoors. The sun was shining through the window as I headed down for breakfast. Everything had dried out on the radiators. This was becoming a routine since starting on the pennines. There was a couple of lads downstairs, they were walking the Pennine Way northward and told me that they were suffering with this weather and sore feet. They had arranged to have their packs picked up at Hawes and had booked YHAs and B&Bs for the remainder of the walk. As we were talking it started raining again outside. Nice touch. I wished them well and headed out. The rain died off as I made my way up towards Pen-y-Ghent. As I climbed the wind grew stonger and stronger. The weather has been terrible since I crossed into England. Is it that I was being tested at the half way point. This happened on the Pennine Way too. When I reached the ridge I cut off along the PW towards Fountains Fell. There was a glimpse or two of sun between lots of heavy dark and menacing cloud. It was very hard walking in the strong headwind. My left shin was begining to hurt with each step. Fountains fell is a short steep up followed by a long meandering down. The down path towards Malham tarn had some strange looking cows crowded together across the path. They had very long horns but were forward pointing rather than the upward pointing highland type. I bet that they were sick of the weather too. I met a few people near the bottom. A couple of blokes were walking the PW. The wind made Malham tarn very choppy. It was almost like being at the seaside. Again cows covered the path around the tarn. These were regular cows without huge horns. One dropped a pat right in front of me. It splattered all over but luckily missed me, or it would have been burgers by now. The next stage to Malham Cove was quite busy. The sun was nice now, but the wind ripped through the Ing Scar. From the limestone pavement on top of the cove the views were now great. With a clear sky I could see Pendle Hill and beyond. I was now really starting to feel close to home. I pressed on through Malham and followed the PW along the river Aire towards Gargrave. The walking was easy going. The wind had dropped and the sun was out, at last a nice end to the day. I found the campsite at the back of town and was on my own in a little field. All very nice for just £5 too. As I pitched another guy turned up. Richard is walking the PW north and he looked in pain as he hobbled in. He told me that he was about to quit having had a horrible last few days with weather and things going wrong. He was pushing too hard at the start and had set himself a very tight schedule. I told him to sort out his blisters and start to think one day at a time. He should have a short day to Malham tomorrow and take it from there. He agreed. We went into town and found a curry house and had a nice curry before heading to the Sun Inn for a couple of pints.

Back at the tent I got my head down at about 10pm after calling home. It rained hard in the night. I woke with a start as lorries were starting up at 4:30am in the yard right next to the field. Nice one.





Friday 8th May  Gargrave to Pondon

Hill paths along the Pennine Way
18 miles approx

I woke early and after saying good luck to Richard I was on my way. The weather was cool and windy with a cloudy sky. Richard had lost his gaters yesterday in the bad weather and I said I'd look out for them. I found them not far out of town next to a difficult to open gate. He texted me and asked me to bin them. The walk to Thornton-in-Craven was pleasant enough through fields and along the canal at East Marton taking me under the famous two arched bridge. At Thornton in Craven I met a dutch guy walking the other way, he told me that he knew of an end to end walker a few days behind him who was 62. As I approached Pinhaw Beacon it started to rain again and the wind grew in strength. This was just to let me know that I was still on the Pennines. Lothersdale was nice even in the wet. There was still no post office. I'd searched for it on the PW too. The path climbed up and down and up and down all the way to Cowling. The old farmhouses along the way which were crumbling nearly two and a half years ago, are still crumbling now. They are too far off the beaten track to have been bought up in the property boom. As I climbed up along Dean Moss, passing the old wooden shacks I came accross a elderly couple walking down. They own one of the shacks and told me that they are used as holiday homes for people in Cowling. They probably were shooting huts at one time. They told me that they think that the number of people walking the PW has steadily fallen in the last few years. I must say I hadn't come across that many this time. As I reached the open expanse of The Sea (strange name for a hill) I could see Pendle Hill disappearing behind a grey wall of rain. The bad thing was that this wall was coming my way and fast. It hit minutes later and hit hard. I wasn't just wet I was cold too. Grrrr. I almost ran to get some cover. I eventually made the road and the rain stopped. The road was closed to traffic but ok to pass on foot. I cut down to the lower, busier, road by the resevoir.

There were three pigs on the path that came over to see me as I approached. One wanted a fuss so I patted its head and it grunted like it loved it. I walked along the road a short distance and it was too dangerous so I crossed the dam and headed down towards Pondon Mill which is  now closed down. A short distance further on I arrived at at The Old Silent Inn. Spooky name for a spooky place. The room was nice, If a bit cold. The food was great. After fish and chipped potatoes, I returned to my room and was so  jaded that I fell asleep. I had a long hard day planned for tomorrow, aiming to push as far as possible hoping to get home the day after.  Thats over 60 miles in two days. Hmmmmm
 
Saturday 9th May  Pondon to Standedge

Hill paths along the Pennine Way
27 miles approx

For once I had a late start this morning. 7am! It seems that the weather was forecast to get bad later in the day. I had a full breakfast and was on my way by 9am in the sunshine. Down the road, and back to Pondon Mill before turning up the track towards Top Withins (Wuthering Heights) on the Pennine Way. I passed Upper heights farm, it has almost been completely rebuilt and showed new signs reading 'Camping closed' and 'Private keep Out'. Its a good job that I wasn't planning to camp there last night. That will cause trouble for some Pennine Way walkers.

The wind was strong as I came over the top and headed down towards Walshaw Dean resevoir. After passing the Packhorse Inn there were a lot of people walking and running. The clouds were building. I called in at the Alladins cave shop in Coldon and bought butties, a pie, cake, chocolate and drinks. The up and down bits that followed weren't as bad as I remembered last time I was here. It was then down to Wooky Hole and on to the main road and canal near Hebden Bridge. The climb up to Stoodley Pike wasn't bad either. After the pike, as I came to the edge of the moorland, the wind gained strength and it looked like rain too. I took a couple of pain killers as my shin was starting to hurt again. I put on the waterproofs as I could see rain coming in from the distant hills around Winter Hill. The wind was so stong as I passed the high resevoirs that I could hardly stand. It was literally pushing me over. I wasn't happy as it was dangerous and I could have been blown into the deep water.

It was a real nightmare. I was sick of the wind as I approached Blackstone Edge, so the gods decided to add heavy rain to the misery. This was horrible as it was really heavy and driving in from the side. My waterproofs weren't keeping it out at all. I Pushed on over the M62 and on to White Hill where the rain finally went off and the sun came out. It was a real shock. I was drying out by the time I reached Standedge cutting and found somewhere to wild camp.

Up went the tent against a wire fence overlooking the Redbrook resevoir. The heather making for a soft floor. After today I could have slept on rocks, but this was nice. I ate some food an sat in the dimming sun thinking about actually getting home tomorrow. I would need an early start with over 35 miles to cover.






Sunday 10th May  Standedge to Furness Vale

Hill paths along the Pennine Way and on to home.
35 miles approx

I was up at 5:30am and was away by just after 6. I started out slow with a very long day ahead. The sky was milky white with a bit of red on the horizon. Hmmm red sky in the morning. I couldn't find any shepherds to ask what they make of it. I walked up along the track by the Wasenden Resevoirs and up to the A635. Again the promised snack van wasn't there. I was dreaming of a bacon butty all night too. Perhaps its because it was Sunday. I pressed on along the flagged pennine way up to Black Hill which was now nice and green. The seeding that I saw had been done a couple of years ago had really worked well. The weathered and erroded peat was no held together by lots of thick grass. I looked back to the road to see that the butty van had just arrived. That was just typical. No one about yet as I pressed on down to Laddow Rocks and on to Crowden. I found the campsite and bought some drinks and a few snacks for the journey ahead. Now it was back up the road to rejoin the PW across Torside Resevoir. At this point it started to rain so it was on with the waterproofs as I headed up the steep side of Torside Clough. The rain went off as I progressed along a less steep section along to the top of Bleaklow. There were a couple of people about now. I looked across towards Manchester and could see Werneth Low. This is a small hill that I used to cross when I walked to work. I really was nearly home. I decided to have a look for the Wainstones and Herns stones at the top of Bleaklow. I had been up here a few times but never seen them. They are just off the PW, about 40m to the west. I took a few photos and headed off back towards the PW at which point I thought I'd lost my map and spent about 10 mins retracing my steps and searching for it, only to find that it was inside my waterproof jacket at the back. How it got there I don't know. My shin was really hurting now. I had some painkillers and pressed on to the long path across the Snake Road towards Kinder Scout. This is my home turf. It was a long walk, the sun was out now and I was flagging a bit. My shin was causing me a lot of grief but I pushed on. What choice did I have. I called Lorraine from Mill Hill and told her that I was looking down on Furness Vale and could see our house in the distance. She was to wait a short while then head up the hill that we call Big Stone (there is a big stone edge at the top) and meet me there and we would walk back the last few miles together. I pressed on leaving the PW at the top of William Clough and took the path down to the Kinder Resevoir. It was a tough muddy path, and was very busy too. I walked the familiar route down towards Hayfield carpark and then out again towards South Head. Here I climbed up to the gate and looked up at big stone edge in the distance and could just make out Lorraine stood on top. Hmmmm. She must have left early and legged it up there. I called her and we agreed to meet further down on my side. I pushed on to a little bench where I waited for her. She came round the corner and it was great to see her again. It felt like I'd been away for ages. We sat a while then walked up to Big Stone. I was walking very slowly, I was done in. The walk down to Furness Vale, and home, took much longer than usual, but it didn't matter as I'd walked from the very north of mainland Britain to get here. I could have a rest, sort out my shin and kit and sleep in my own bed.  Nice.